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Manaslu Expedition

50 Days

Overview

The Manaslu Expedition has become one of the more popular but still arduous mountaineering destinations. Manaslu (also known as Kutang, meaning flat place!) is the eighth highest mountain in the world. The mountain can be approached from various sides but most attempt it from Samagaon along the Budhi Gandaki valley. The name was later changed to Manaslu, derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa, and can be translated as ‘Mountain of the Spirit’. The first ascent of this peak was in 1956, by T. Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu on a Japanese expedition. The peak was not climbed again until 1971, when another Japanese team made the second ascent. In 1997 Charlie Mace made the first American ascent. There are half a dozen established routes on the mountain today, but the south face is arguably the toughest. Roughly one in five climbers have perished on this peak, making it the 4th most dangerous 8000m peak, behind Annapurna, Nanga Parbat and K2.

Climbing Details

  • Manaslu has many interesting routes leading to the common summit and many of them were climbed and explored. The standard commercial route is along the original route of the 1956 Japanese expedition up the Northeast face. The climb is straightforward and only slightly more technical then Cho Oyu or Shishapangma, however with low Base Camp it is a long climb and with relatively high objective avalanche risk.Camp 1 is located at 5700m at the bottom of the North Peak right above the glacier on a protected area.Camp 2 is located at the safe section of the climb on a relatively flat area at 6400m. In this camp, there can be a lot of snow accumulation.Camp 3 can be reached walking 3 hours from camp 2 and lies at 6800m height just below the col to avoid the very strong winds to ensure the safety.Camp 4 is at 7400m. The ultimate summit is reached by an exposed technical traverse for around a distance of 70 meter. It takes around 6 to 8 hours climb.

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Manaslu Expedition

Trip Fact

  • Fly in/out
  • 8156m